Motorcycle meter

Now briefly back to the electronics side. What happens when a device that is not weather-proof is installed to a relatively hostile environment? Text below has been published before, but I'm now adding it here again, with updates and small edits.

I've been asked a few times if the Eltrip-meters function on a motorcycle. The meters are primarily designed to be used in a location that is protected from rain and environment in general - that is, in a cabin of a car. Thus I've been forced to respond with absolute maybe.

Not very convincing, I know, so why wouldn't I try for myself.

I didn't have to look very far for a suitable target bike, as there happened to be a 2003-model Kawasaki ZR-7s in my own garage (shown on picture here, on August 2012, somewhere around Tyrnävä). I've owned this bike for total of seven years now, so before taking the bike out at the spring (this being in may 2012) I installed completely off-the-self, unmodified Eltrip-R20 meter to it. Absolutely no improvements, like adding conformal coating to electronics, waterproofing enclosure or anything was done; meter was exactly as taken from standard delivery packaging. 

As the bike's own speed/distance meter was mechanical, an external magnet-detecting sensor had to be installed. Since front tire had no readily suitable place for the sensor, I cut a suitable piece from a available piece of sheet metal and used it to attach the sensor between original sensor cable and brake holder. I glued two magnets on the brake disc holder with normal general utility glue; other of these can be seen on picture. The original magnets are still in place, so at least for this kind of driving the glue was sufficient. Real racing or off-road driving might require better attachment.

Meter itself was attached directly above the handlebar. I could have put the Eltrip above the bike's own meter, under the windshield where it would have been better protected, but since this was to test the meter in outside conditions I chose to install it on more exposed location.
The location above the handlebar is fairly far down from normal line of sight, so looking at the meter during driving requires taking eyes off the road for too long a time. Under the windshield would've been better for this too.
The actual installation was done with a few more pieces of metal attached under the bolts that hold the handlebar. Meter was also attached to these pieces of metal with screws. Attachment was sturdier than usual, but at least now random passing thief won't just grab the meter that easily. Again, on a location where there are more criminals around one might consider using velcro for meter so it can easily be taken with you when leaving the bike.
Meter power was taken after the ignition lock, so when bike wasn't driven the meter was unpowered. The bike has been outside for two summers now, directly exposed to the elements. The picture abovewas taken on june 2012, and by looking carefully some rust can be seen at the end screws of the meter. This so far is only sign of wear.

In same picture above at the left is PWM-based handlebar heating control unit I installed six years ago can be seen. The attachment for it is kinda MacGyvered together, and now I would do it differently. The electronics in heater control unit isn't protected either, and it's still functioning perfectly.
Meter has worked reliably for two summers now. Although there was a lot of rain, it never affected meter functionality at all, not even when starting up in heavy rain (driver's functionality in such conditions is another issue...). Since the meter was not constantly powered, the internal clock stops after a week or so, but that can be re-set easily enough.
Usage-wise even thin driving gloves make using of meter more difficult when driving. However, using the meter when actually moving is dangerous, so meter shouldn't be used when moving anyway; stop, then do whatever adjustments are needed before continuing driving.

After the first summer, when moving bike inside to hibernate over winter I removed the meter from bike to examine electronics in detail with microscope, but no problems or water-damage could be seen although there absolutely has been water inside the meter. In the end, the slight rust-coloring of the screws was actually only sign that meter had been in moist environment. After last summer I didn't even remove the meter - there had not been any reason to expect that anything had changed as meter still works perfectly. Now the third summer is creeping closer so the test continues.

And conclusions?

No large conclusions really can be drawn from this one simple test. Of course I can now, if asked, say that a meter has been on my bike for two summers and survived without a scratch. When installing a meter for an actual race it most likely would be located in a more protected place under the windshield and it might also be installed so that it can be taken off when not used, so it might not be that exposed to environment at all (or only briefly during race).
One might consider adding some hot-melt glue on the most exposed regions (seams at upper part of housing and display) to protect the meter further. Lower part of the meter should be left unsealed, as it's good to have a place where water (be it rain that somehow got in or condensation) can drain out from the meter.


Now, this absolutely has to be said: Although Eltrip did tolerate this test, this absolutely can not be generalized to all electronics! Eltrips have been designed to take some abuse in automotive use, so before starting this project I had pretty good expectation of the results already. Under no circumstances I recommend anyone to test this with their own devices unless they have been specifically designed or adapted for this kind of use. If you still decide to try, you will be doing this with your own responsibility.